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Ethnic Cultural Identity - An indispensable factor in the fashion industry

02/09/2022 08:53 AM

Truong Thi May wears Lanh My A Ao Dai, opens Dinh Van Tho fashion show

In 2016, the Vietnamese people's Heritage of Worshiping Mother Goddesses Worship was officially inscribed on the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. People worship the Mother Goddess Lieu Hanh together with the Holy Mothers who govern the heavens, forests, water, and historical or legendary figures who have contributed to the country and the people... with about 70 gods like Tran Hung Dao, Pham Ngu Lao... The folklore elements such as costumes, music... in festival practice, chanting-granting rite, and singing literature... associated with the Three Palaces Mother Goddess Worship have contributed to preserving the national cultural identity of the Vietnamese people, spreading the heritage value of cultural industry development.

Every country in the world has its symbols associated with the spirit of the country. Besides culinary arts, scenic spots... costumes are also unique symbols of each ethnic group.

Japan is proud of Kimono, a delicate and unique national costume, bringing with it the beauty and national spirit of Japan, the soul of Japanese culture. The color of the kimono usually denotes the seasons of the year and each social class.

Hanbok is the traditional costume of the people of South Korea and North Korea with very typical vibrant colors. In the past, upper-class clothing was woven from hemp or a light, high-class fabric. Ordinary people are only allowed to wear shirts made of pure cotton. Korea is famous for its highly developed textile industry, especially fabric, but the people still keep their style of indigenous clothing.

In Indonesia, Batik fabric is created using wax dyeing techniques and printing patterns using traditional manual methods. Batik art appeared more than 2500 years ago... Although not the birthplace of Batik, Indonesia is considered the country of Batik, where Batik art reached its peak, Batik fabric is considered a product of the Indonesian national brand. In 2009, Indonesia's traditional Batik dyeing technique was included in the list of representatives of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity by UNESCO.

In Vietnam, the Government has approved the "Strategy to develop Vietnam's cultural industries to 2020, with a vision to 2030", covering different fields, including the fashion industry in general, and the Textile Industry in particular.

As a global industry, Fashion is a gathering place where designers-manufacturers-retailers from around the world work together to design, manufacture and sell clothing, footwear and accessories, creating revenue is about 2.5 trillion USD/year. In the United States, 4 million people work in the fashion industry. Meanwhile, India is one of the major textile and garment producers, employing about 40 million workers and 60 million indirect workers, second only to the agricultural sector.

Along with the trend of greening and sustainable development, the Fashion Industry is increasingly looking for local manufacturers and designers whose works reflect local culture and preferences, creating their own identity for fashion products.


Fibers derived from nature are increasingly popular

In Vietnam, with the goal of focusing on sustainable development orientation of the textile industry in 2 phases from now to 2030, from 2030 to 2035 according to the circular economy model, Vietnam Fashion is completing the domestic value chain, gradually participating in the high-value segment in the global supply chain, exporting and consuming domestically by owning regional and international brands, increasing the localization rate in the textile industry.


Faslink collaborated with a Vietnamese designer to launch a collection to introduce the exhibition “Green fabric” with 5 types of natural fibers: coffee yarn, lotus yarn, seashell yarn, coconut fiber, and mint yarn at the “Green Path” event.

With the goal set by the Government to build 30 world-class Vietnamese textile and garment brands, Vietnam's Fashion Industry is gradually finding its appropriate direction, with its own identity. In addition, the increasing standards of "greening-sustainability" of key market areas in the world for textile and garment products have pushed manufacturers including Vietnam to find green materials and sustainable ones based on inheriting and promoting the quintessence of national culture.

In recent years, Vietnamese fashion has made strong changes to keep up with world trends with the appearance of breakthrough natural materials.

With bamboo material from bamboo - a plant closely associated with Vietnamese people, companies such as Hoa Tho with the Merriman brand, Viet Tien with Viettien, San Siaro, X28 with Belluni, Garco 10 with Grusz... continues to launch new product lines with many preeminent features such as natural anti-wrinkle, antibacterial, UV protection, color retention, and high fabric durability. Bamboo fiber is a material being used by many world fashion brands.

In 2020, Viet Tien made a breakthrough with a collection of men's shirts made from lotus and eucalyptus fibers imbued with national culture with the attitude of respecting and preserving the continuation of tradition – present with great inspiration.


Compared with other fibers, the production ofbanana fiber is extremely resource-saving

Lotus fiber is made from the integration process of lotus seed powder and lotus leaf powder - Vietnam's national flower. Fabrics made from lotus fibers have the effect of balancing moisture and preventing skin dryness, are less wrinkled, easy to use, breathable, prevent bacteria from growing, and protect human health.

Eucalyptus fabric is made from finely chopped eucalyptus stems and is combined with soft cotton fibers to make the fabric light and breathable. Eucalyptus fabric has a durable fabric texture that provides a smooth, cool feel, dries quickly and is less wrinkled...

Pineapple yarn: Ecosoi - the leading enterprise in developing pandan fiber in Vietnam: starting from the fact that millions of tons of pandan leaves are discarded every year, in 2021, Ecosoi has developed machines such as machines, yarn separators, whipping machines, and carding machines to produce the main products: raw yarn and whipped yarn. According to the plan in 2023, the company will have a new product line of industrial yarns for the fashion industry. With Ecosoi's current customer, Pinatex - the world's largest pineapple fiber producer, Ecosoi has contributed to bringing Vietnamese ecological fiber products to the world.

Yarn from banana stem: According to Musa Pacta Company, from the banana fiber, it is possible to make handicrafts such as weaving high-quality clothing fabrics to secret industrial goods such as making paper money, banana silk yarn can be kept for years, taking advantage of the leisure time of local people with a very large market when the world is tending to reduce plastic and even eliminate single-use plastic. Banana fiber is both antibacterial, mildew resistant, tough, durable, hygroscopic and cool.

The scale of the world banana fiber industry is worth tens of billions of dollars, high-end fashion brands such as Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Zara, Uniqlo, H&M... all have products from banana fiber and banana fiber fabric. With the desire to turn banana fiber into a useful thing, so that the country has one more preeminent product on the world market, Musa Pacta has invented a device to process banana stalks into fibers, residues, water. In other words, there is no waste, but everything becomes a commodity, which is an input material for many other fields such as growing plants, and microbiological services for watering plants.

Shortly, when Musa Pacta's cotton and yarn factory is inaugurated, there may be a line of high-quality fabric products for consumption and export. This is a yarn that can be sold to the Vietnamese textile and garment industry with non-woven fabrics, industrial spinning is currently being researched, and is expected to be launched in 2023.

EFFORTLESS EFFORT TO REVIVE TRADITIONAL MATERIALS

The story of the revival of Lanh My A is a process of feats for the producer and designer...With unceasing efforts and boundless love for the products of “Lanh”, Mr. Tam Lang and his successor Nguyen Huu Tri contributed to the revivalof Lanh My A, perfecting thetechnique of weaving and dyeing fabrics. Precious silk is woven from the high-quality silk of Bao Loc-Lam Dong, which is cool and humid all year round,the only place in Vietnam wheresilkworms can be raised from the Fuji mountains, Japan. This long silk thread is soft and smooth without joints, has an ivory-white color that looks as clear as yarn and is dyed withthe resin of the Mac Nua fruit. Derived from the request of Ms. Rose Morant, a French womanwho has travelled to find unique materials for a high-end fashion company to come to Vietnamto find the raw material area, Mr. Tam Lang has both doneand learned from experience. By 1992, the number of Lanh weaving was 1,000m, reaching 70% of the requirement.

And1995 products qualified asraw materials for many luxuryfashion labels in the world.To have a sheet of Lanh My A,it must go through about 100 times of dyeing, 20 times of washing and rinsing, and about10 times of beating the fabric...By 2003, Nguyen Huu Tri hadfound 7 new colors for Tan Chau silk beside the traditional black.

Designer Vo Viet Chung, with the mind, that Material is thehegemony of fashion, was thefirst to restore and use Lanh My A material for an Ao Daicollection called “Dream about Asia” and won the award.Award for people who havecontributed to the restorationand development of Lanh My A, preserving the homeland’s cultural traditions through the Ao Dai, awarded by UNESCOin 2007.Not only with materials,Vietnamese designers aremaking relentless efforts tocreate modern fashion products that are both highly applicable but still have Vietnamese cultural characteristics and areenvironmentally friendly. Vun Art is a social enterprise with high operational efficiency, bringing new vitality to Dong Ho folk paintings through high-art products sent to domestic and international friends. The production process starts from Van Phuc Vun Silk, which isreceived from tailors, sorted,dried and ironed, then drawnand cut patterns accordingto the design, glued on theproduct, and put into the pressmachine heat to ensure thetextures do not peel off whenwashed.100% silk puzzle pieces,no printing, no sewing andno embroidery but treatedfor colorfastness andenvironmental friendliness,evaluated by OCOP 4stars - export quality crafts,representing a national brand.


The handmade painting made from shredded silkon the bag has become a special souvenir

The handmade painting made from shredded silk on the bag has become a special souvenir FASHION TREND The motifs used by the designerare taken from Dong Ho folk paintings, simple and close, but expressing the spiritual aspirations of the Vietnamese people for peace and prosperity.The pictures of pigs and herdsare like realistic depictions of amother pig with a flock of cubs gathered, carrying on her body the symbol of yin and yang philosophy through the shapeof a circle, expressing thesimple and meaningful wishfor growth and development of the Vietnamese people.Integrating and absorbing the cultural quintessence of humanculture, but always carrying national pride, the cultural identity of more than 4000 years of history crystallized in fashion works is the messageof “fashionists” “Vietnam wants to convey to Vietnameseconsumers and international friends.

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